50° F, keep above freeze .
Soil PH :
EC ( What is EC ? ) :
1.5-2.0 pour through method acting
Hostas will benefit from a lighter lotion of liquid fertilizer ( 20-10-20 with 50 ppm nitrogen ) in early on spring. Since it is critical to keep all chondritic fertilizers far from plant crowns to avoid injury, liquid feed is safest. alternatively, a top-dressing of slowly spill fertilizer may be used. Roots may rot if besides much fertilizer is applied. In the fall, entirely a inner light application ( if any ) is necessary. Apply very little nitrogen in the fall to allow plants to go dormant .
Required for 10-12 weeks at temperatures below 40° F .
Pests & Diseases :
Aphids are particularly fond of the new growth. If they feed excessively, the leaves may appear disfigured when they unfurl. Applications of Rycar, Endeavor and BotaniGard are effective at preventing aphids. Applications of Avid, Floramite, Sultan and marauding mites are effective on some varieties of hostas which are susceptible to spider mites. Mainspring, Conserve, Orius and predaceous mites are effective against thrips. Slugs tend to seek out hostas. estimable greenhouse sanitation before pot is the best means to prevent a bullet outbreak. Mice and voles besides enjoy a tasty meal of hosta roots and crowns. Prevent rodent problems by using bait or traps .
Potting & timing :
Potting territory should be a well-drained, bark-based, soilless blend. Use a pot that corresponds with the size of the roots. Giving roots the distance they need will allow plants to reach their optimum size and quality. When transplanting, it is best to spread or fan out the roots since this tends to encourage new growth. When transplanting in spring, keep hostas at 50° F for the first gear two weeks to promote root growth. minimal temperatures may then be lowered to 40° F .
The best root development occurs when plants are allowed to dry out slenderly between waterings. It is best to water early in the good morning. As with all plants, it is crucial not to over-feed or over-water. Keep land damp early in the growing season, but do not overwater. Later in the season, allow land to dry out between waterings. Dormant hosta require very little water. Severe or prolonged dry conditions, on the early handwriting, may force hostas into dormancy and can reduce plant size the follow class .
Planting level :
Growing points or ‘eyes ‘ should be at or precisely below the land surface .
Providing adequate space is the best method to achieve nicely shape hostas without stretching. If adequate space is not available and/or pgr is needed, Daminozide ( B-Nine ) 2500 ppm or Uniconazole ( Sumagic ) 5 ppm sprays are effective at reducing petiole stretch. Apply when leaves begin to unfurl, 2-3 consecutive applications can be made every 7 days if needed. A erstwhile 1 ppm Uniconazole swamp can besides be applied in identify of sprays, after the first few leaves have expanded .
long days encourage fresh foliation growth and root growth. Container-grown hostas are more susceptible to sunscald than those growing in the ground, ascribable to higher root zone temperatures and larger swings in moisture levels. Growing containers under a 30 % -50 % shade fabric is recommended to prevent sunscald. The threshold for luminosity is around 4,000 foot candles to mimimize sunscald, so checking with a light meter can help to make sure your shadow fabric is reducing the light to around this level .
other Comments :
Potted hosta can be overwintered in the same manner as most other potted perennials. After applying a antifungal swamp, we suggest using the following winter procedures based on our know in Midwest climate :
- In a cold frame structure – Turn larger pots on their side if possible. Cover with a layer of microfoam and a layer of white copolymer. Be sure to remove this covering in early Spring. Bait liberally for mice. Although cold frames are low in cost, this method is not preferred because the plants become exposed to extreme temperature changes along with excessive wind and moisture once the covering is removed in Spring. This can cause foliage and root damage, and possibly the loss of plants.
- Unheated overwintering structures covered with a white copolymer – This is an ideal method of overwintering potted hostas. With this method, the pots are placed inside the unheated structure and covered with microfoam. Although the microfoam is removed in early Spring, the white copolymer can remain on the houses for some additional time, making this method preferable over cold fram structures. Hostas will develop naturally in this environment and yet be protected from the extreme weather conditions of Spring. As an added bonus, the ends of the houses can be opened for ventilation. As the warmer days of Spring arrive, the white copolymer can be removed and replaced with 50% shade cloth for contined growing. A 70% shade cloth is recommended for blue hostas as it will help hold their blue color longer in the season.
- Minimal heat polyhouses (around 35° F) – We do not recommend growing potted hostas in a warm house since they require a prolonged cold treatment in order to break dormancy. Normally, hostas grown in a minimally heated polyhouse develop faster than in their natural environment. Advanced foliage on hosta cannot be hardened off and damage can occur if exposed to cold temperatures.