50° F, keep above freeze .
Soil PH :
EC ( What is EC ? ) :
1.5-2.0 decant through method
Hostas will benefit from a light up application of liquid fertilizer ( 20-10-20 with 50 ppm nitrogen ) in early form. Since it is critical to keep all chondritic fertilizers far from plant crowns to avoid injury, liquid run is safest. alternatively, a top-dressing of dense release fertilizer may be used. Roots may rot if besides much fertilizer is applied. In the descent, alone a light application ( if any ) is necessary. Apply very short nitrogen in the fall to allow plants to go dormant .
Required for 10-12 weeks at temperatures below 40° F .
Pests & Diseases :
Aphids are particularly fond of the new growth. If they feed excessively, the leaves may appear disfigured when they unfurl. Applications of Rycar, Endeavor and BotaniGard are effective at preventing aphids. Applications of Avid, Floramite, Sultan and predaceous mites are effective on some varieties of hostas which are susceptible to spider mites. Mainspring, Conserve, Orius and predatory mites are effective against thrips. Slugs tend to seek out hostas. good greenhouse sanitation before pot is the best room to prevent a sluggard outbreak. Mice and voles besides enjoy a tasty meal of hosta roots and crowns. Prevent rodent problems by using bait or traps .
Potting & time :
Potting land should be a well-drained, bark-based, soilless mix. Use a pot that corresponds with the size of the roots. Giving roots the space they need will allow plants to reach their optimum size and quality. When transplanting, it is best to spread or fan out the roots since this tends to encourage new growth. When transplanting in spring, keep hostas at 50° F for the first two weeks to promote root growth. minimal temperatures may then be lowered to 40° F .
The best solution development occurs when plants are allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. It is best to water early in the dawn. As with all plants, it is crucial not to over-feed or over-water. Keep dirty damp early in the growing season, but do not overwater. Later in the season, allow dirty to dry out between waterings. Dormant hosta require very little water. Severe or prolonged dry conditions, on the other hand, may force hostas into dormancy and can reduce plant size the play along year .
Planting level :
Growing points or ‘eyes ‘ should be at or just below the dirty airfoil .
Providing adequate distance is the best method acting to achieve nicely shaped hostas without stretching. If adequate space is not available and/or pgr is needed, Daminozide ( B-Nine ) 2500 ppm or Uniconazole ( Sumagic ) 5 ppm sprays are effective at reducing petiole stretch. Apply when leaves begin to unfurl, 2-3 consecutive applications can be made every 7 days if needed. A erstwhile 1 ppm Uniconazole drench can besides be applied in topographic point of sprays, after the first few leaves have expanded .
long days encourage modern leaf emergence and root growth. Container-grown hostas are more susceptible to sunscald than those growing in the land, due to higher root zone temperatures and larger swings in moisture levels. Growing containers under a 30 % -50 % shade fabric is recommended to prevent sunscald. The doorway for light is around 4,000 foot candles to mimimize sunscald, so checking with a light meter can help to make sure your shadow fabric is reducing the unaccented to around this level .
early Comments :
Potted hosta can be overwintered in the same manner as most other potted perennials. After applying a antifungal drench, we suggest using the following winter procedures based on our experience in Midwest climate :
- In a cold frame structure – Turn larger pots on their side if possible. Cover with a layer of microfoam and a layer of white copolymer. Be sure to remove this covering in early Spring. Bait liberally for mice. Although cold frames are low in cost, this method is not preferred because the plants become exposed to extreme temperature changes along with excessive wind and moisture once the covering is removed in Spring. This can cause foliage and root damage, and possibly the loss of plants.
- Unheated overwintering structures covered with a white copolymer – This is an ideal method of overwintering potted hostas. With this method, the pots are placed inside the unheated structure and covered with microfoam. Although the microfoam is removed in early Spring, the white copolymer can remain on the houses for some additional time, making this method preferable over cold fram structures. Hostas will develop naturally in this environment and yet be protected from the extreme weather conditions of Spring. As an added bonus, the ends of the houses can be opened for ventilation. As the warmer days of Spring arrive, the white copolymer can be removed and replaced with 50% shade cloth for contined growing. A 70% shade cloth is recommended for blue hostas as it will help hold their blue color longer in the season.
- Minimal heat polyhouses (around 35° F) – We do not recommend growing potted hostas in a warm house since they require a prolonged cold treatment in order to break dormancy. Normally, hostas grown in a minimally heated polyhouse develop faster than in their natural environment. Advanced foliage on hosta cannot be hardened off and damage can occur if exposed to cold temperatures.