Growing temperature :
50° F, keep above freeze .
Soil PH :

EC ( What is EC ? ) :
1.5-2.0 decant through method
richness :
Hostas will benefit from a easy application of liquid fertilizer ( 20-10-20 with 50 ppm nitrogen ) in early form. Since it is critical to keep all chondritic fertilizers far from establish crowns to avoid wound, liquid feed is safest. alternatively, a top-dressing of decelerate release fertilizer may be used. Roots may rot if besides a lot fertilizer is applied. In the fall, lone a unhorse application ( if any ) is necessary. Apply very small nitrogen in the fall to allow plants to go dormant .
Vernalization :
Required for 10-12 weeks at temperatures below 40° F .
Pests & Diseases :
Aphids are particularly adoring of the new growth. If they feed excessively, the leaves may appear disfigured when they unfurl. Applications of Rycar, Endeavor and BotaniGard are effective at preventing aphids. Applications of Avid, Floramite, Sultan and marauding mites are effective on some varieties of hostas which are susceptible to spider mites. Mainspring, Conserve, Orius and marauding mites are effective against thrips. Slugs tend to seek out hostas. good greenhouse sanitation before pot is the best way to prevent a type slug outbreak. Mice and voles besides enjoy a tasty meal of hosta roots and crowns. Prevent rodent problems by using bait or traps .
Potting & timing :

Potting dirt should be a well-drained, bark-based, soilless mix. Use a toilet that corresponds with the size of the roots. Giving roots the quad they need will allow plants to reach their optimum size and timbre. When transplanting, it is best to spread or fan out the roots since this tends to encourage newly increase. When transplanting in bounce, keep hostas at 50° F for the foremost two weeks to promote root emergence. minimum temperatures may then be lowered to 40° F .
moisture :
The best root development occurs when plants are allowed to dry out slenderly between waterings. It is best to urine early in the good morning. As with all plants, it is crucial not to over-feed or over-water. Keep dirt damp early in the growing season, but do not overwater. Later in the temper, allow dirty to dry out between waterings. Dormant hosta require very short water system. Severe or prolonged dry conditions, on the other hand, may force hostas into dormancy and can reduce plant size the follow class .
Planting degree :
Growing points or ‘eyes ‘ should be at or just below the dirt surface .
PGRs/Pinching :
Providing adequate space is the best method acting to achieve nicely shaped hostas without stretching. If adequate space is not available and/or pgr is needed, Daminozide ( B-Nine ) 2500 ppm or Uniconazole ( Sumagic ) 5 ppm sprays are effective at reducing petiole stretch. Apply when leaves begin to unfurl, 2-3 consecutive applications can be made every 7 days if needed. A erstwhile 1 ppm Uniconazole drench can besides be applied in place of sprays, after the first few leaves have expanded .
Lighting :

long days encourage newfangled foliation increase and etymon growth. Container-grown hostas are more susceptible to sunscald than those growing in the ground, due to higher root zone temperatures and larger swings in moisture levels. Growing containers under a 30 % -50 % tad fabric is recommended to prevent sunscald. The threshold for luminosity is around 4,000 infantry candles to mimimize sunscald, so checking with a light meter can help to make indisputable your shade fabric is reducing the lightly to around this level .
early Comments :
Overwintering Information
Potted hosta can be overwintered in the same manner as most other pot perennials. After applying a antifungal drench, we suggest using the following winter procedures based on our experience in Midwest climate :

  • In a cold frame structure – Turn larger pots on their side if possible.  Cover with a layer of microfoam and a layer of white copolymer.  Be sure to remove this covering in early Spring.  Bait liberally for mice.  Although cold frames are low in cost, this method is not preferred because the plants become exposed to extreme temperature changes along with excessive wind and moisture once the covering is removed in Spring.  This can cause foliage and root damage, and possibly the loss of plants.
  • Unheated overwintering structures covered with a white copolymer – This is an ideal method of overwintering potted hostas.  With this method, the pots are placed inside the unheated structure and covered with microfoam.  Although the microfoam is removed in early Spring, the white copolymer can remain on the houses for some additional time, making this method preferable over cold fram structures.  Hostas will develop naturally in this environment and yet be protected from the extreme weather conditions of Spring.  As an added bonus, the ends of the houses can be opened for ventilation.  As the warmer days of Spring arrive, the white copolymer can be removed and replaced with 50% shade cloth for contined growing.  A 70% shade cloth is recommended for blue hostas as it will help hold their blue color longer in the season.
  • Minimal heat polyhouses (around 35° F) – We do not recommend growing potted hostas in a warm house since they require a prolonged cold treatment in order to break dormancy.  Normally, hostas grown in a minimally heated polyhouse develop faster than in their natural environment.  Advanced foliage on hosta cannot be hardened off and damage can occur if exposed to cold temperatures.

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